"Come" -
is an accepted command of the recall, and then it shall come in to the leader's
side. A whistle may also work. If you want to use a sign, the "arms
straight out from the body" is the most common recall sign. If we settle
for the dog to get a little closer to us when it moves freely, then we can take
to further command; "come over here" for example, a sign that the dog
should be within a reasonable distance.
One goal is that the dog must come directly
(at least almost) in all imaginable and unimaginable situations. It is not
blocked or deaf if it does not come to your recall command, it is disobedient!
And you do not have the obedience of the dog, as you wish, the problem is yours.
Being able to run around as often as possible is a must if the dog should have
a good life!
The foundation of
the command's when the dog looks in your direction, shouting “come” or whistle
once, while moving away. Immediately when the dog starts to run after you it
shall be reached by a promising praise. Praise sometime with candy and practice
a few times each day. One method is rarely used in all situations, but tries to
be consistent in the basis. When the dog knows what we want and obedience
should be confirmed, we are increasing the degree of difficulty afterwards. If
it does not work, go back in the learning stages. Begin to call the dog when it
is more doubtful that it will obey directly, such as an interesting smell spot.
Stay up five to six meters near the dog at recall. It is the disturbances under
the moment that successively will be increased, not the distance to the dog,
this we do later. Also be clear on how to behave if the dog does not come
immediately when you call.
To repeat the
command gives no learning. It could possibly be perceived as invitations to
play. Second, after you found that your "come" is not evoked any
reaction You gives a sharp "NO !" command. When the dog is now
looking at you, you quickly switch tone and an encouraging "come - yes
good so". Use this method in different ways, perhaps you squat on par with
the dog when receiving it.
Real attention, or
if there is little this and that with the ban command, is strengthened came
command by throwing anything in the butt of the dog. When the dog looks at you,
quickly switch tone and give encouraging "come - yes well so". Really
stronger leadership displayed by wait until the dog comes back, do not give
praise and do not call on the dog when you catch sight of it. On the contrary,
with frown take it by the scruff and put it down; show that you are
dissatisfied without to punish the dog. Wags his tail you've been too kind! Add
a little more pressure on the voice.
Go gently away,
the dog must remain and see unhappy. After a moment, do you call it again,
still with dissatisfied voice - you are the pack leader who decides. Let the dog come to you and provide just
enough praise. Give your dog freedom again, and when it left you a few meters
you call in. If the dog looks at you and makes the effort to come immediately
make sure to give greatly praise! Repeat gladly recall at close range a couple
of times. If there is a tendency to escape in this situation, you are on the
wrong path and have to start over again with goodies and train more on the stay
command.
If it does not work, go back a few steps in the
training. Maybe you need an enclosure to train in. Does the training work, you
increase the degree of difficulty successively. And that goal may be to
"come" command works with playmates. If you use the whistle use the
same signal constantly followed immediately by come command. Note: We must always, before we give
command, knowing what to do if the dog does not obey! For many commands without
action is the most common error at incoming training.
Separate situations where it is useful to training a
moment and when it is suitable to use a moment! Moderately obedience does not
exist, without when a command has been given the dog this shall apply
consistently! However, one can question how obedience should be applied.
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