Leadership, obedience and dog training

The dog is a herd animal, and with a herd animal need of a strong leader. A working forbid command is one of the main goal of a functioning education.

Contact and transfiguration; a happy dog and a happy leader are individuals who never become fully trained. And certainly; "It's hard to teach an old dog new tricks" - but it is never too late, just harder. 

You notice that the more you work with the dog, the more susceptible contacting becomes. It is both practical and nice with the dog who often seeks eye contact. So, let the dog "asking permission with your eyes"; when it should be out on the search, when it shall eat or out of the car, etc. 

The goal is that the dog must obey directly (at least almost) in all imaginable and unthinkable situations. It is not blocked or deaf if it is not acting in your command, it is disobedient! And if you do not have the obedience of the dog as you wish, you own the problem. Exercise, practice and then training with great patience and much praise! 

Should the dog to compete, and be judged by others than yourself, well then you should have professional help.

PROJECT ?

Notes made for information or instruction, about the dog's relationship with man's flock it lives in. Are you going to get a dog, puppy or an adult? If you wish to update your knowledge about the dog? In Swedish culture, we say that the dog is man's best friend, and even a better friend than the humans (unlike the cultures that accept wild dogs, only use them for work or where they have them for food.

Do you think this is something to bet on, have feedback on the design of the presentation or something to add, we'll gratefully accept comments, we are still in the development phase

Obedience training at NO command

A NO-command shall immediately interrupt a prohibited act. In comparison with the dog herd, where hierarchy and the hard way apply, dogs are not afraid of each other. They seek each other's company, sleeping together and playing together. Our education will lead to the same situation; however, it is not going so fast. Learning principle is basically the same for all dogs, even if they are different as individuals and as race. Punishment, leading to fear, is completely wrong! The submissiveness is not fear in the animal world!

Avoid teaching the forbid-command in stressful situations, for example, as the dog has stressed up for cat hunting. Actually, no special situation is needed. The essential thing is to teach the dog that there is a big difference on how you are when you're angry and when you are satisfied. Ideally, the forbid-command will come just when the dog starts the prohibited act, in the same moment it smells or sees the cat. You do not have to scream, dogs hear much better than humans. Save screaming as an extra strengthening until it is really needed. Give the command with a low but firm voice. If nothing happens, do not repeat the command. Cancel the act immediately, and for an example, grip over the neck or a soft little slap on the nose of the dog. Continuing the dog with whatever you have forbid, you have to repeat the command immediately followed by a now much more definite correction; thus strengthening your status and authority as the herd leader. If this rather does not work, it is your lack of consistency which is the cause. Continue, even more firmly, until you see a subservience of the dog.             

One exercise, for cozy and relaxation, can be; Sit on the floor. Place the dog on its back between your legs. The dog should be relaxed and calm without you have to hold it. Praise it with caresses and soft chatter when it is relaxed. A definite NO if it tries to twist around or get up. It is you who decides. Pick some of nails and pads. If this is ok there is circumstances for own continued dressage.

Stay calm, transmit a definite energy, and observe the signals the dog is giving you. As the dog cancels the prohibited act, it must quickly find out that it has done the right thing, by getting praise. How to give praise is a bit depending on what type of individual you have. Sometimes it works best with moderately, perhaps a little gruff pending praise. Some dogs respond best to a lively, with body language, certain praise.

Obedience training at Leash

Leash is needed, even if the dog is next to the leader. There are places where there is leash oblige. And in urban areas much can be happen, how close the dog however would be you. Otherwise, it is best to have as a goal to be able to walk without a leash. However, if there is not 100% obedience on the dog without a leash, with you as the pack leader, there Leash oblige! The dog always needs a pack leader nearby, for his own (and surroundings) security!

At the beginning of the training it is important that collar and leash is associated with security. From there you could decide that it is not allowed to pull the leash. To pull the leash shall be troublesome. It should, however, be stretched without we "draw" on the leash. Depending on race and temperament, it feels different; the main thing is that we are consistent from day to day. The command is "No", snappy and firmly. The command should come just when the dog starts to struggle against any interesting scent, or lamppost. Works command stops the dog dragging and looking to us. Then, immediately comes the praise "yes good, do not pull". If there is no response on “NO !”, we must strengthen the command, for example only with a snatch on the leash. But several pressures give no learning.  If there will be no reaction makes the pressure greater, repeat it not, and have patience. It may take a week, if you do right, wasting the praise and be consistent.

Another option for those who do not want to snatch the leash may be that, when the dog pulls, stops simply. And as soon as drawing on the leash stops, give your praise. Continue your walk and repeat the stop until the dog does not pull. Here, however, it is no any exercise of the "no" command.

Freedom; "Hop and Play" is an accepted command, which means that now you are free to do what you want. There is no requirement that the dog should be disconnected, if you currently training with the dog on a leash. Here the idea is that the dog may leave your side, cancel the previous command, and just simply drop the previous command. It does not mean that you should start playing with the dog, or he'll rush off to other dogs. For this there is no need for any command, if you now allow it. Let Freedom command be a recovery between exercise sessions in a few minutes, and try to finish each exercise with a successful result.

At a continued leash training and rope bringing used a leather leash and a chain necklace (not too narrow). Use the "foot" and the dog sitting on your left. Use the command in a low voice, at the same time as you begin to walk. Encourage with the praise and candies, use "no" for corrections. Eye contact with the dog is essential for a good result. It is also important to only give praise when there is actual contact with the dog. When you stop, the dog would as quickly as possible, sit at your side. Use the "foot – sit!” with the goal that it should also be done without command. The command should come before the activity! When to correction; first "no" command and immediately after correction with the leash (fast snappy jerk). When you make eye contact, you will be friendlier to the voice, commands' “foot”, and show the dog to the side. Note; short training!

Rope bringing you works most easily with if you hold the leash in your right hand in front of the body, just above waist height. The leash will be loose and hang in a loop, then it will be much easier to go with the dog in the free companion, that is the dog is the same as the leash but unleashed. Correct any disobedience with a grip by the scruff.

"SIT !"; in the learning phase, hold up a treat in front of its nose and just at the moment when the dog sits. When the dog sits down relatively quickly, begin to command seating just when the dog will to sit down. The treat exchanged for only praise successively. At the end it is enough with verbally or with signs command. Use the left side and right hands.

Obedience training at incoming call and stay there

"Come" - is an accepted command of the recall, and then it shall come in to the leader's side. A whistle may also work. If you want to use a sign, the "arms straight out from the body" is the most common recall sign. If we settle for the dog to get a little closer to us when it moves freely, then we can take to further command; "come over here" for example, a sign that the dog should be within a reasonable distance.

 One goal is that the dog must come directly (at least almost) in all imaginable and unimaginable situations. It is not blocked or deaf if it does not come to your recall command, it is disobedient! And you do not have the obedience of the dog, as you wish, the problem is yours. Being able to run around as often as possible is a must if the dog should have a good life!

The foundation of the command's when the dog looks in your direction, shouting “come” or whistle once, while moving away. Immediately when the dog starts to run after you it shall be reached by a promising praise. Praise sometime with candy and practice a few times each day. One method is rarely used in all situations, but tries to be consistent in the basis. When the dog knows what we want and obedience should be confirmed, we are increasing the degree of difficulty afterwards. If it does not work, go back in the learning stages. Begin to call the dog when it is more doubtful that it will obey directly, such as an interesting smell spot. Stay up five to six meters near the dog at recall. It is the disturbances under the moment that successively will be increased, not the distance to the dog, this we do later. Also be clear on how to behave if the dog does not come immediately when you call.

To repeat the command gives no learning. It could possibly be perceived as invitations to play. Second, after you found that your "come" is not evoked any reaction You gives a sharp "NO !" command. When the dog is now looking at you, you quickly switch tone and an encouraging "come - yes good so". Use this method in different ways, perhaps you squat on par with the dog when receiving it.

Real attention, or if there is little this and that with the ban command, is strengthened came command by throwing anything in the butt of the dog. When the dog looks at you, quickly switch tone and give encouraging "come - yes well so". Really stronger leadership displayed by wait until the dog comes back, do not give praise and do not call on the dog when you catch sight of it. On the contrary, with frown take it by the scruff and put it down; show that you are dissatisfied without to punish the dog. Wags his tail you've been too kind! Add a little more pressure on the voice.

Go gently away, the dog must remain and see unhappy. After a moment, do you call it again, still with dissatisfied voice - you are the pack leader who decides.  Let the dog come to you and provide just enough praise. Give your dog freedom again, and when it left you a few meters you call in. If the dog looks at you and makes the effort to come immediately make sure to give greatly praise! Repeat gladly recall at close range a couple of times. If there is a tendency to escape in this situation, you are on the wrong path and have to start over again with goodies and train more on the stay command.

If it does not work, go back a few steps in the training. Maybe you need an enclosure to train in. Does the training work, you increase the degree of difficulty successively. And that goal may be to "come" command works with playmates. If you use the whistle use the same signal constantly followed immediately by come command.     Note: We must always, before we give command, knowing what to do if the dog does not obey! For many commands without action is the most common error at incoming training.

Separate situations where it is useful to training a moment and when it is suitable to use a moment! Moderately obedience does not exist, without when a command has been given the dog this shall apply consistently! However, one can question how obedience should be applied.

Obedience training at stay, and notes about mentaly and castration.

Stop and the recall is the first a dog should learn. The alternative to "stay" is "lay" as practiced only when the dog is over a year old. The command trainees and practices with voice sign or whistle. The basis is to get the dog to lay down, with all that training it involves. A development may be that the dog should stay standing at command, but there can be problems with accuracy, but it is not impossible.

STAY! Call the dog with the command "come" and when the dog is in front of you command "stay". When the dog has stopped and has eye contact, give praise! A variant that is effective for maintaining obedience is that you have a throw object in your hand. When you stretch your hand up and give stay command, throw the object and command "yes" as soon as the dog stopped and looked at you.

Stops the dog not immediately you will give a no command, taking a few quick steps forward and with your hand, from the bottom up under the chin, ensures that it will stop immediately. Simultaneous with this correction gives you one more stop command. And never give after at the requirement for an immediate stop. The problems of immediate stop can be many; the dog had late feral contact, and the dog has now become tougher than in the puppy stage. Then a sharp “NO” command does not help. You have to get the dog to show submission, and not wag its tail. Any attempt to persecution of feral, cat or anything else should always be stopped with the command "stop"!

If it goes wrong sometime, when the dog is too far away, wait until you have the sinner with you again. Run the training exercise a few times at close range; then with fairly sharp corrections at the slightest sign of disobedience. After that, release the dog a ten-fifty meters and give the command again. When it works perfectly you have to give much praise.

The dog's mentality

In a combination of state of mind and different demands on the dog, we have with praise, motivation and rewards, and sometimes unconditional demands led it to accept its place in the human herd. There is also an ongoing process since we humans have been so difficult to live in the present. The dog always live in the present.

Virtually all our breed dogs are originally formed to be the man instrumental in different situations. A hunting dog breeding have been bred for generations to hunt, working dog breeding has selected on dogs who are active and willing to work, and for the typical companions dogs often have the look, but also adaptability, has been important.

Different breeds have different needs

Think about what you hope for and expect from your dog ownership. Are you interested in training, maybe compete, that is, are you ready to make your dog to your hobby? Or are you primarily looking for a companion who on the whole is happy if it gets to hang with the family through thick and thin?

Think about your own knowledge and the resources you are willing to put in to educate and train your dog. Be realistic when choosing a breed of dog. All dogs require time and dedication, but some breeds require substantially more than others. Is it really a great, consuming, labor-hungry dog that would fit best in your family?

Differences between individuals

Although one can say that there are characteristics that are typical of certain breeds of dogs, differs mentality between individuals.

It is important that a dog work well in everyday life. Our society today demands on dogs' behavior and it requires that they are both harmonious and balanced.

Trust and confidence generates success, brutality creates fear and back again!

The castration of male dogs can be a necessity

The most common reasons for male dogs in Sweden are castrated are to make them infertile, for medical reasons or for to get rid of unwanted behaviors (natural or unnatural mentally disturbed).

It is not unusual that the castrated male is bullied by other dogs. It seems that the other dogs cannot identify the castrated dog sex which can make them confused. He has become something of a integender. Some other dogs may react with aggression, insecurity or riding.

The behavior in males which may be affected by castration, they are sexually connected. There are few studies on the effectiveness of castration.

1. Aggression between male dogs (competition for females).

2. Roaming (roam around and smell / look for females and rival males).

3. Escaping to look for females.

4. Sexually riding.

5. Stress on the basis of sexual operation has decreased in the castrate.

Obedience training at lay, and notes about stress.

LAY! Experience the security in “lay” (down) before speed is training. After a few months of training, in that the dog is safely in 5 - 10 minutes, the speed and lay down in different situations can be done. Play up the dog sharply, command “LAY”, correct if necessary, and precise after it has settled, command “jumps and play” again. Repeat the exercise three - four times. The command "Lay" will also serve as a stop command.

The command "place" is the same as lay. When the command is meant to be used when you want to be alone for the dog, use rather "go to basket"; when you do not have big demands on speed and unconditional obedience. Unconditional "lay" -training; you tap the leash obliquely forward and down while with one hand behind the shoulder of the dog gives a boost downwards.

STRESS

Stress reduction list, if the cause is not related to the breeding and reproduction.

Stress is always a symptom not a cause. Find out why your dog is stressed and change it in the first place, and then you can work on the symptoms - stress!

• Remove the cause of stress, such as pain / illness, leash-jerking, excessive demands of obedience, for many dog ​​meetings, too much fighting and hunting games and more.

• Keep the distance the dog needs to what creates stress (for example other dogs)

• Increase the number of meals; divide the quantity of food on several times. Up to five times is quite ok!

• Provide a lot to chew on: bones, marrow-bone and the like. Chewing has a calming, relaxing effect.

• Leash Training is super important for a stressed dog; walks will be pleasant for the dog and owner. Focus on this in the first place, to train others when this part works. Leash walks otherwise becomes one long stress development.

• Remove any swab and ball-throwing; provides terrible mark in stress hormones. Play quiet games, for example, find hidden toys or candy.

• Reward quiet. Remove punishments as much as possible; avoid the situations you have to punish the dog instead.

• Suitable rest periods between activity. (Minimum 4 hours)

• Remove nagging. Focus on a few points that are important and take them first. Do not train a hundred things at once and then punish the dog cannot. Focus on leash training, passivity. Add on other training when the dog can these pieces. Start practicing in calm environment at home.

• Smell exercises! A dog cannot use the nose and rush at the same time. Add simple hot dog tracks, search candy in the tall grass. Give the food thrown across the floor or lawn so the dog will "work" for it.

• Massage; rub your dog calm and methodical. The body then produces its own pleasure hormone called endorphins and the dog feels better and has come into the turns.

Patience! Remember all training is exhausting for the dog, especially a stressed dog! Run short sessions and stop when it goes best! Do not request more and more all the time, content with small successes every day!

Obedience training

Do you have any goal with your dog?

The goal can be:

  command  "STAY THERE!"

The dog sits, loose outside the store while people with dogs walking past, and you do your errands inside the store for ten minutes......

Demands phase continues for life for the dog; act quickly if disobedience, do not nag, think before the command and use the "stay there" when you leave the dog. Reprimand with the command "no - stay there" while you hinder the dog. Practice, practices ... give the command stay there while your hand gives a stop signal to the dog. And hurry slowly; take a step back when it is not working. Continue to come out of sight of the dog, but make sure you can see the dog all the time. Correct immediately otherwise you create an eye-servant. 

The dog's rights

Right to understanding and management

I belong to a different species than you. You must learn and understand the rules I live for by.

The right to food and water

Allow me to always have access to fresh water and get to regular meals. It is a precondition for me to feel good.

Right for protection

You are my leader and my protector. Protect me against anything that is dangerous and frightening. Do not allow anyone to force himself on me. Do not allow children to play with me unattended.

The right for exercise.

I need exercise a few hours each day.

Right to not be beaten

An aggressive action from you makes me afraid and uncertain.

Kind treatment

You cannot apologize to me if you lose your temper; If you are irritated, do not let it out on me. Your kindness is the basis for my happiness.

Right to companionship

I'm a pack animal, so companionship is important to me. If you must leave me alone, let it not be more than five hours in a day.

Right to veterinary care

If I become sick or injured, you have to take me to the vet. I have a right to healthcare.

Right to care

No one falls ill from too much care and love. However, lack of it my make me sick. Let me see that you care about me and that you love me.

The right to protection from heat and cold

I am more sensitive than you to heat. If I get too cold can I fall ill! Do not bind me outside or let me be alone in the car when it is hot or cold.

Freedom from forced

Do not force me to perform above my ability. I cannot read, I may not understand what you want. Do not assume that I misbehave on purpose out of spite.

Right to control of my life

Let our relationship be mutual. Let me express my will too. I want to feel some control over my situation.

Right to education

I need to go to school. I need to learn the rules needed to fit in your community and in your family.

The right not to suffer

One day I'll be old. My life is much shorter than yours. My life is in your hands. Do not let me suffer.

The law says;

- The dog should be protected from unnecessary suffering and disease and have enough fodder, water and care. If an animal is sick, injured or otherwise through their behavior shows signs of illness, will it earliest given the necessary care, if necessary, by a veterinarian.

- The dog must not be unattended for more than a maximum of 6 hours.

- The dog should be kept under oversight so that it not causes damage or considerable detriment. This means that it is your responsibility as dog owners / dog holder to take the steps necessary to prevent something happening. Do you know that your dog biting other dogs and / or humans, the dog must be muzzled in public!

- Dogs must be marked and registered.

- Moreover, dogs must be kept on leash in areas that are not dog exercise area / Dog Park. To not keep the dog on a leash, outside the dog exercise area / dog park, can thus be a crime (criminal sanction available in the local order of rules for each municipality). In the Law on supervision of dogs are, among other things, that during the period from 1 March to 20 August, dogs must be kept under oversight to prevent them from running loose in the land where there is wildlife. This does not automatically mean that the dog must be leashed but it must be under such obedience as if it were linked. In general, a dog has never to be, even if not on a leash coercion exists, run around unchecked.

In some areas there is always leash coercion and in some places a total dog prohibition. Leash coercion always applies in the nature reserve, no matter how good obedience you have on your dog. Dog prohibition applies for example in playgrounds, many cemeteries and on the public beach.